Results showed Olivem © 1000 is indeed a microbiome-friendly functional ingredient that preserves skin’s cutaneous microbiota composition and biodiversity. Hallstar conducted several clinical tests on this biomimetic emulsifying active to discover if its complex combination of fatty acids is compatible with the skin microbiota ecosystem, as experts recommend. As the sole emulsifier, Olivem ® 1000 provides a deep moisturizing effect. Olivem ® 1000 has the ability to generate liquid crystal structures that mimic the stratum corneum organization. Suffice it to say that I can work within a recommended range of percentages to come up with a pretty good formula.COSMOS-validated Olivem ® 1000 is a PEG-free self-emulsifying multifunctional ingredient (white to ivory waxy flakes at 20☌, melting point ~ 70☌). It is a complex combination of fatty acids, chemically similar to the lipidic composition of the skin surface. But that’s not all! There’s also the cationic, anionic, and nonionic behavior of the ingredients that has me baffled. Your eyes are probably glazed over as well. (I’ve lost you already, haven’t I?) Each ingredient is assigned a value from 0-20 that is supposed to help you figure out a formula for your lotion, and to predict how the emulsifier will behave. There is a system called the HLB System (Hydrophile – Lipophile Balance) which is the ratio of oil soluble and water-soluble portions of a molecule. One of the reasons I say that I am not an expert lotionmaker, is that the chemistry behind it is rather daunting to me. I’ve decided to use it for my regular lotions as well. I discussed some of these in my post about the preservative I chose for the facial moisturizer – which happens to be all-natural. There are a whole host of chemical preservatives available. Nasties you can see – like a big ol’ fuzzy mold, and nasties you can’t see – like bacterias that can cause infections if introduced to broken skin. If it has water in it, it has the potential to grow nasties. If you are wondering whether or not you really need a preservative for your lotion, the answer is most definitely YES! Preservatives must be used in any product that contains water-soluble ingredients. There are LOTS of different emulsifiers out there, but the one I would recommend for a beginner is the emulsifying wax. It has also proven to be easy to work with, and gives a very light, cushiony feel to the moisturizer. It’s derived from olive oil, and I’ve been using it in the facial moisturizer that is currently being tested. The other one is called OlivEm 1000 (INCI name: Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate). It’s highly stable and easy to work with. The first is called Polawax, otherwise known simply as “emulsifying wax”. So what is an emulsifier? Most of them are waxy substances, usually flakes or pellets, that are added to the oil soluble ingredients of the lotion and create an emulsion when the oil and water soluble ingredients are combined. Emulsifying Wax - pellets OlivEm 1000 - flakes Some soap supply stores have started carrying these items as well. They have to be ordered from a supplier who specializes in lotion formulating. Most people can’t just go to the store and buy an emulsifier and preservative. All you need for a basic lotion is some water, oils, an emulsifier, and a preservative. Lotion is an emulsion between water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients. This may seem simple, but I don’t think I ever really thought about it before I started making it. If you are thinking about trying your hand at formulating, I’ll do my best to guide you in the process.įirst, I’m going to start by describing what lotion is. I am NOT an expert by any means, but I have had quite a bit of practice. I’ve been making a lot of lotion lately, and thinking about how far I’ve come in learning this craft.
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